Fixings & Fasteners
Fasteners are the bits that hold the job together, from timber and sheet materials to masonry, metalwork and first-fix brackets on site.
Get the fixing wrong and you're back drilling, patching, or worse, sorting a failure after handover. This range covers proper trade fasteners and fixings for timber, block, concrete and steel, whether you're hanging battens, securing trunking or bolting down framework. Start with the base material, the load, and the finish, then buy the right kit once.
What Are Fasteners Used For?
- Securing studwork, sheet timber and carcassing on first fix where you need a fixing that bites properly and does not loosen off once the job starts moving.
- Fixing battens, brackets, clips and cable tray into brick, block or concrete during electrical, plumbing and mechanical installs where the wall matters as much as the fitting.
- Bolting down structural steelwork, plant, gate hardware and site fixtures where nuts, bolts and washers need to stay tight under load and vibration.
- Handling refurbs and snagging work where mixed backgrounds mean you need the right screws and fixings to deal with old plaster, crumbly block and patched masonry.
- Finishing external jobs with weather-resistant fasteners and fixings that hold up better in damp, exposed areas like fencing, cladding, roofing trims and outside brackets.
Choosing the Right Fasteners
Sorting the right fastener is simple: match it to the material you are fixing into, not just the thing you are fixing up.
1. Base Material Comes First
If you are fixing into timber, standard wood screws usually do the job faster and cleaner. If you are going into brick, block or concrete, do not guess. You need the correct wall plug, anchor or masonry fixing or it will pull out when load goes on.
2. Think About Load, Not Just Hole Size
If it is only holding a bit of trim or lightweight clipping, a lighter fixing is fine. If it is carrying cabinets, pipework, tray, handrails or plant, step up to a fixing with proper pull-out strength and enough embedment to cope with real site loads.
3. Match the Finish to the Environment
For dry internal work, bright or zinc coated fasteners are often enough. For outside work, damp plant rooms or treated timber, go for corrosion-resistant options. Using the wrong finish is how you end up with rust streaks, seized heads and early failure.
4. Buy for Access and Speed
If you are working overhead, in corners or doing volume fixing, choose heads and drives that let you work quickly without cam-out. A cheaper fixing that rounds off or snaps under the impact driver soon costs more in time than it saves on the box price.
Who Uses These on Site?
- Chippies use fasteners every day for first-fix timber, flooring, stud walls and sheet materials, and they will always match the thread and length to stop split timber and weak pull-out.
- Sparkies rely on fixings for trunking, back boxes, tray, clips and board work, especially when they are dealing with mixed wall types across refurbs and commercial fit-outs.
- Plumbers and heating fitters reach for the right builders fixings when hanging pipe clips, brackets, cylinders and plant, because a poor wall fixing soon shows up once weight goes on.
- Dryliners and ceiling fixers use screws and anchors for track, board and suspended systems, where speed matters but so does a fixing that will not spin out in tired substrate.
- Groundworkers, fabricators and maintenance teams use heavier fasteners and fixings for steel, timber, fencing, plant and external hardware where corrosion and movement are part of the job.
Fixings Accessories That Save Time on Site
A few simple extras make fasteners and fixings easier to fit properly and stop wasted time on blown holes and rounded heads.
1. Drill Bits
Use the right masonry, metal or wood bit for the fixing you are fitting. Drill the wrong size hole and plugs spin, anchors sit proud, and you end up redoing work that should have been right first time.
2. Driver Bits and Nut Setters
Do not chew through screw heads with worn bits. Fresh driver bits and the right nut setter keep fasteners driving straight, especially when you are fitting hundreds in a day.
3. Wall Plugs and Anchors
Keep a proper range in the van. When the wall turns out softer, older or more hollow than expected, the right plug or anchor saves you standing there with a screw that has nothing to bite into.
4. Storage Organisers
Mixed boxes rolling round the van waste time and lead to wrong fixings getting used. A decent organiser keeps lengths, gauges and types separate so you grab the right fastener first time.
Choose the Right Fasteners for the Job
Use the base material and the load to narrow it down quickly.
| Your Job | Fasteners or Type | Key Features |
|---|---|---|
| Fixing timber stud, sheet material or carcassing | Wood screws | Sharp point, deep thread, correct length for grip without blowing through the far face |
| Securing brackets or trunking to brick and block | Wall plugs and screws | Matched drill size, decent plug expansion, enough embedment for the wall condition |
| Fixing into concrete for heavier site hardware | Anchors or concrete fixings | Higher load holding, solid substrate grip, suited to repeated or permanent fixing |
| Bolting steelwork, machinery or gate furniture | Bolt, nut and washer sets | Correct diameter, thread type, washer spread and finish for load and exposure |
| Installing threaded rod or heavy fixtures in weak masonry | Resin and stud systems | Strong hold in tricky substrates, good for edge distances and cracked or older masonry |
Common Buying and Usage Mistakes
- Choosing fixings by length alone. A long screw in the wrong substrate still fails, so always match the fixing type to timber, block, brick, concrete or metal first.
- Using indoor plated fasteners outside. They soon rust, seize or stain the finish, so step up to a corrosion-resistant option for exterior and damp locations.
- Drilling the wrong size hole for plugs and anchors. Too loose and the fixing spins, too tight and you damage the plug or crack the base material, so stick to the stated bit size.
- Driving screws with worn or wrong bits. That is how heads cam out and jobs slow down, so keep fresh driver bits in the pouch and use the right drive pattern.
- Guessing load requirements on heavier fittings. Cabinets, plant, rails and pipework need proper holding power, not whatever is loose in the van, so buy for the actual weight and use.
Screws vs Anchors vs Bolts
Screws
Best for timber, sheet material, board and general first-fix where speed matters. They are quick to drive and easy to remove, but on masonry they usually need a plug or matched fixing system to hold properly.
Anchors
Built for brick, block and concrete when you need more holding power than a simple plug and screw. Good for brackets, frames and heavier fittings, but only if the hole size and substrate are right.
Bolts
The right choice for clamping metal, timber and hardware together where load and vibration are a factor. Slower than screws to fit, but stronger and more secure for structural and plant fixings.
Chemical Fixings
Best where standard anchors are not enough, especially in weaker masonry or where you need threaded rod set solid. They take more prep and cure time, but they solve awkward load cases properly.
Maintenance and Care
Keep Boxes Dry
Store fasteners and fixings somewhere dry in the van, container or workshop. Damp gets into open boxes fast and once rust starts on bright steel, that stock is not worth trusting on decent work.
Separate by Type and Size
Do not tip mixed screws, bolts and plugs into one tub. Sorting them properly stops the wrong fixing being grabbed on site and saves time hunting for the right gauge or length.
Check for Corrosion and Damaged Threads
Before fitting, look for rust, bent shanks and damaged threads, especially on bolts and threaded rod. If the thread is rough or the coating is gone, replace it rather than forcing it in.
Protect Driver Bits and Setters
A lot of fixing problems come from worn accessories, not the fastener itself. Replace rounded driver bits and damaged nut setters before they start stripping heads and slowing the job down.
Bin What You Would Not Trust
If a fixing has been overdriven, partly rusted, bent or pulled from a failed install, do not reuse it on anything important. Fasteners are cheaper than call-backs.
Why Shop for Fasteners at ITS?
Whether you need everyday trade fixings for first fix, specialist anchors for concrete, or boxes of screws and bolts for site stock, we have the full range covered. You can shop Screws, Nails & Pins, Nuts, Bolts & Washers, Chemical Fixings and Fixings & Anchors all in one place. It is all stocked in our own warehouse and ready for next day delivery, so you can get the right fasteners and fixings on site without the wait.
Fasteners and Fixings FAQs
What is a fastener?
A fastener is the part that joins or secures materials together. On site that usually means screws, bolts, nuts, washers, nails, anchors and similar bits of kit used to hold timber, metal, sheet material or masonry fixings in place.
What do fasteners mean?
In plain trade terms, fasteners means the hardware that holds one thing to another. It is a broad term covering everything from simple wood screws to heavier bolts and concrete anchors, depending on the material and the load.
What types of fixings and fasteners are there?
There are plenty, but the main groups are screws, nails, bolts, nuts, washers, wall plugs, anchors and resin-based systems. Timber jobs usually call for screws or nails, masonry often needs plugs or anchors, and heavier steel or plant fixings are usually bolted or chemically fixed.
How do I choose the right fixing for a wall?
Start with the wall type first. Plasterboard, brick, block and concrete all need different fixings. Then look at the weight of what you are fitting and whether it is likely to move or vibrate. A light picture fixing is one thing, a boiler bracket or wall cabinet is another. If the wall is weak, hollow or crumbly, step up to a fixing designed for that background rather than forcing a standard plug to do a job it cannot hold.
What's the difference between a fixing and a fastener?
They overlap, but there is a practical difference. A fastener usually means the part doing the clamping or joining, like a screw or bolt. A fixing often means the full method of securing something to a surface, which might include a plug, anchor or resin as well as the fastener itself.
Will these hold in old brick or tired blockwork?
Some will, some will not. Old masonry is where cheap or generic fixings get found out. For soft, cracked or crumbly backgrounds, look at specialist anchors or resin systems rather than relying on a basic plug and screw. Drill clean, avoid blowing the hole oversized, and do not overtighten.
Are all screws and fixings fine for outside use?
No. Internal plated fixings can rust quickly once they are out in the weather or fitted into treated timber. For fencing, cladding, external brackets or any damp location, buy the right corrosion-resistant fixing from the start.
Can I use an impact driver on all fasteners?
Not always. Impact drivers are ideal for many screws and some hex head fixings, but they can easily overtighten smaller fixings or damage threads on bolts if you are not careful. Use the right bit, watch the torque, and finish by hand where accuracy matters.
