Screws
Screws are the fixings you reach for when the job needs a solid hold in timber, sheet, metal or board without messing about with loose fixings.
On a real job, the right screws save time, stop splitting, and hold properly first time. Whether you're fixing stud, laying decking, hanging sheet material or driving into thin metal, match the thread, coating and head to the job. Pick the right screws here and get the fixing sorted properly.
What Are Screws Used For?
- Fixing timber studwork, battens and sheet material where wood screws or multi-purpose screws need to bite cleanly and pull everything up tight without chewing the surface.
- Laying garden decking, fencing and other outside timber jobs where decking screws with the right coating stand up better to weather and stop rust stains running down the work.
- Fastening metal brackets, trunking, cladding sections and thin sheet where self-tapping screws or metal screws cut in cleanly and save time on repetitive fixing.
- Securing plasterboard to timber or metal stud where plasterboard screws sink neatly below the face without tearing the paper and making a mess for the finisher.
- Anchoring into masonry and concrete with concrete screws when you need a direct fixing without plugs and want a tidy install on frames, channels or brackets.
Who Uses These on Site?
- Chippies use screws all day for first fix, stud walls, flooring, carcassing and decking because they pull timber up tight and come back out cleaner than nails when something needs altering.
- Dryliners and sparks reach for plasterboard screws and self-tapping screws when boarding ceilings, fixing back boxes, trunking or metal framing where quick, repeatable fixing matters.
- Roofers, landscapers and fencing teams rely on stainless steel screws and galvanised screws outside, where cheap finishes soon fail once the weather gets into the fixing.
- Shopfitters, maintenance teams and fitters keep mixed multi-purpose screws and metal screws in the van for snagging, brackets, panels and awkward little fixing jobs that crop up every day.
Choosing the Right Screws
Sorting the right screws is simple. Match the screw to the material and the environment, not just whatever is nearest in the tub.
1. Match the Thread to the Material
If you are fixing into timber, go for wood screws or multi-purpose screws that pull in fast and hold without splitting everything apart. If you are fixing sheet steel, brackets or trunking, use metal screws or self-tapping screws because a timber thread will just fight you and leave a poor hold.
2. Do Not Ignore the Coating
If the job is outside or anywhere damp, use stainless steel screws or properly coated decking screws. Galvanised screws are fine for plenty of exterior jobs, but if you are near treated timber, coastal air or regular wet weather, stainless is the safer long-term choice.
3. Get the Length Right
If the screw is too short, it will not hold once the job starts moving or taking load. If it is too long, you risk blow-through, split timber or catching hidden services. As a rule, you want enough length to get a solid bite into the base material without punching out the far side.
4. Pick the Head for the Finish
If you need a flush finish in timber or board, choose countersunk heads so they sit down properly. For brackets, sheet and fittings where you want more bearing surface, pan or flange heads usually make more sense and stop the fixing pulling through.
Screw Accessories That Save Time on Site
A few simple extras make screws go in cleaner, quicker and with less damage to the fixing head or the workpiece.
1. Screwdriver Bits
Use the right bit for the drive type and keep spares in the box. A worn Pozi, Phillips or Torx bit will cam out, round the head and turn a quick fixing job into ten minutes of swearing.
2. Pilot Drill Bits
A proper pilot bit stops hardwood splitting, helps long screws track straight and makes driving into neat finished joinery far less risky. It is a small step that saves wrecking the material.
3. Countersink Bits
If you want screw heads sitting flush in timber, get a countersink on the job. It stops the head riding proud, reduces breakout round the face and gives a cleaner finish for visible work.
4. Magnetic Bit Holders
These make repetitive fixing easier when you are up a ladder, working one-handed or running lots of screws into awkward corners. Less dropped fixings, less faff, quicker progress.
Choose the Right Screws for the Job
Use this quick guide to narrow down the fixing before you start driving screws at the wrong material.
| Your Job | Screw Type | Key Features |
|---|---|---|
| Studwork, timber framing and general first fix | Wood screws or multi-purpose screws | Deep thread, fast pull-in, countersunk head and good bite in softwood or sheet timber |
| Decking, fencing and exterior timber | Decking screws or stainless steel screws | Weather-resistant coating, corrosion protection and lengths suited to treated timber boards |
| Metal brackets, sheet and trunking | Metal screws or self-tapping screws | Thread suited to thin metal, clean start and secure hold without fighting the fixing |
| Boarding walls and ceilings | Plasterboard screws | Bugle head, sharp point and thread options for timber or metal stud |
| Direct fixing into masonry or concrete | Concrete screws | High grip thread, no plug needed in many jobs and quick install for channels or brackets |
Common Buying and Usage Mistakes
- Using indoor screws outside is a classic mistake. The coating fails, rust creeps in and the fixing can stain or weaken, so use galvanised screws or stainless steel screws where weather is part of the job.
- Choosing the wrong length wastes time fast. Too short and the fixing will not hold properly, too long and you risk splitting timber or blowing through the back of the work.
- Driving screws with the wrong bit size rounds the head and ruins the fixing. Match the drive exactly and change worn bits before they start chewing through boxes of screws.
- Skipping pilot holes in hardwood or near board edges can split the material and spoil the finish. Pre-drill where the timber is dense, brittle or visible.
- Using timber screws in metal, or metal screws in timber, gives poor holding power and a slow install. Match the screw type to the base material so it bites properly first time.
Wood Screws vs Self-Tapping Screws vs Concrete Screws
Wood Screws
Best for timber, sheet material and general joinery where you need strong pull-in and a neat countersunk finish. They are not the right choice for metal or masonry, and they can struggle if the timber is very hard and you have not piloted it.
Self-Tapping Screws
These are the sensible pick for thin metal, trunking, brackets and sheet where you want quick repetitive fixing. They save time in the right material, but they are not a catch-all replacement for proper timber or masonry screws.
Concrete Screws
Use these when you want a direct fixing into masonry or concrete without messing with plugs on every hole. They are ideal for channels, frames and brackets, but you need the correct pilot hole and clean-out or they will not bite as they should.
Maintenance and Care
Keep Screws Dry
Store loose boxes and tubs somewhere dry in the van or workshop. Once fixings sit in damp packaging, surface corrosion starts and the drive recess can deteriorate before you even use them.
Separate by Type
Do not throw every spare screw into one mixed tub. Keeping wood screws, metal screws and stainless steel screws separate saves guesswork on site and stops the wrong fixing ending up in the wrong job.
Check the Coating
If exterior screws have been rolling round loose with other hardware, inspect the coating before use. Damaged finishes mean reduced corrosion resistance, which is not what you want on decking or fencing.
Replace Worn Driver Bits
A battered bit damages screw heads and slows the whole job down. Fresh bits cost less than the time wasted extracting stripped screws from finished timber or metal.
Why Shop for Screws at ITS?
Whether you need wood screws for first fix, self-tapping screws for metal, decking screws for exterior jobs or plasterboard and concrete screws for specialist fixing, we stock the range properly. It is all in our own warehouse too, so the screws you need are in stock and ready for next day delivery.
Screws FAQs
Can these screws be used outdoors?
Some can, some definitely should not. For outside work, use screws with proper corrosion protection such as stainless steel screws, galvanised screws or dedicated decking screws. Standard interior screws will soon show rust once they are out in weather or damp timber.
What drill bit size should I use for pilot holes?
Use a pilot bit slightly smaller than the screw thread for timber so the threads still get a proper bite. In hardwood, go closer to the screw core size to stop snapping the screw or splitting the timber. For concrete screws, follow the stated pilot size exactly or they will not cut in properly.
Do I need to pre-drill holes for these screws?
Not always, but it is often worth it. Softwood and many multi-purpose screws will go straight in, but hardwood, edge fixings, neat joinery and metal usually benefit from pre-drilling. It keeps the screw straight, reduces splitting and gives a cleaner finish.
What type of screws are best for wood?
Wood screws and multi-purpose screws are the usual answer for timber. They are designed to bite, pull the joint together and sit neatly if you are using a countersunk head. For exterior timber, step up to decking screws, galvanised screws or stainless steel screws depending on exposure.
What type of screws are best for metal?
Go with metal screws or self-tapping screws for thin sheet, brackets and light steel sections. They are made to cut or form a thread in the metal, which makes the job quicker and leaves a more secure fixing than forcing in a timber screw that was never meant for it.
Should I choose stainless steel or galvanised screws?
Galvanised screws are a solid choice for many outdoor jobs and general site use, especially where cost matters. Stainless steel screws are the better bet where the fixing will stay wet, sit in treated timber or face harsher weather for years. If you do not want to revisit the job, stainless is usually the safer call.
What screw head type should I use for a flush finish?
Use a countersunk head if you want the screw to finish flush with the surface. In timber, a quick countersink or pilot helps it sit cleanly without tearing the top fibres. Pan and flange heads are better where you want the head sitting proud to spread the load.
