Fire & Heat Alarms
Fire alarms give you the early warning that stops a small issue turning into a full-on job stoppage, whether it's a house, unit, or site cabin.
On refurbs, fit-outs, and handovers, the right fire and heat alarms matter as much as the install. Choose smoke alarms for living and escape routes, heat alarms for kitchens and dusty areas, and go interlinked so one trigger warns the whole building.
What Are Fire Alarms Used For?
- Protecting domestic and residential jobs by giving early warning in hallways, landings, and bedrooms where smoke alarms can pick up a fire before it blocks escape routes.
- Covering kitchens, garages, and workshops with heat alarms and heat detectors that won't false alarm every time someone cooks, sands, or kicks up dust.
- Linking rooms and floors with interlinked fire alarms so a trigger in a back bedroom or loft conversion is heard clearly at the front door and on every level.
- Upgrading older properties with mains powered fire alarms for a permanent install, or battery powered fire alarms where you need a fast fit without chasing walls.
- Supporting fire safety compliance on HMOs, rentals, and commercial spaces by matching the right smoke detectors and heat alarms to the risk areas and the spec.
Choosing the Right Fire Alarms
Sort the right fire alarm by matching the sensor and power type to the room, then decide how you want them linked across the building.
1. Smoke alarms vs heat alarms
If it's a hallway, landing, lounge, or bedroom, use smoke alarms for the earliest warning. If it's a kitchen, garage, or a dusty workshop area, fit heat alarms or heat detectors to avoid nuisance alarms that get ignored.
2. Optical vs ionisation smoke detectors
If you want fewer false alarms from cooking vapour and general household "air", optical smoke alarms are usually the sensible choice for most domestic installs. Ionisation smoke alarms can be more reactive to fast-flaming fires, but they are more prone to nuisance alarms in the wrong rooms, so placement matters.
3. Mains powered vs battery powered
If you're doing a proper upgrade or new install, mains powered fire alarms are the tidy, permanent route. If you need a quick fit with minimal disruption, battery powered fire alarms get you covered fast, but you still need a proper test routine and timely replacement.
4. Interlinked, wireless, or hard wired fire alarms
If it's a multi-storey house, HMO, or bigger footprint, don't mess about, go interlinked so one alarm sounds them all. Wireless fire alarms are ideal when you cannot run interlink cables without ripping the place up, while hard wired fire alarms suit rewires and first fix where you can cable it neatly.
Fire Alarm FAQs
Do I need smoke alarms or heat alarms, and where do they actually go?
Use smoke alarms in escape routes and living areas where smoke will travel first, like hallways, landings, lounges, and bedrooms. Use heat alarms in kitchens, garages, and dusty areas where a smoke detector will false alarm and end up getting ignored or removed.
Are mains powered fire alarms worth the extra work over battery powered?
If you are already first fixing or rewiring, yes, mains powered fire alarms are the tidy long-term option and are less likely to get neglected. Battery powered fire alarms are fine for quick upgrades and minimal disruption, but you must stay on top of testing and battery changes.
Do interlinked fire alarms really make a difference in a house?
Yes, especially in multi-storey places. A fire in a back room or loft can be missed if only that local alarm sounds, but interlinked fire alarms mean the whole property gets the warning at the same time, which is what gets people moving.
Wireless fire alarms or hard wired fire alarms, which is better on a refurb?
If the walls and ceilings are staying put, wireless interlink is often the cleanest way to link alarms without chasing and making good. If you have access during first fix, hard wired fire alarms are straightforward and avoid relying on radio signal, so it is a solid choice for full refurbs and rewires.
What standards should I be looking for on UK fire alarms?
For domestic smoke alarms, BS EN 14604 is the common benchmark you will see on compliant units. For larger fire alarm systems and commercial installs, the design and installation are typically aligned with BS 5839, so make sure the kit and layout match the spec for the building type.
Will a smoke alarm keep false alarming in kitchens or near bathrooms?
It can, and that is exactly why you do not fit a standard smoke detector in a kitchen. Put a heat alarm in kitchens, and keep smoke alarms out of steamy bathrooms and right next to cooking areas, otherwise you will be back for call-outs and the customer will lose faith in the system.
Who Are Fire and Heat Alarms For?
- Sparks fitting domestic fire alarms on rewires, extensions, and loft conversions, especially where interlinked fire alarms are expected for proper coverage.
- Landlords and maintenance teams replacing tired smoke alarms and heat alarms in rentals and HMOs to keep protection consistent across rooms and floors.
- Facilities and site managers sorting fire safety alarms for offices, welfare units, and light industrial spaces where reliable early warning matters day to day.
- Fit-out crews and shopfitting teams needing a clean, compliant finish, with the right fire detection equipment for back-of-house, kitchens, and escape routes.
The Basics: Understanding Fire and Heat Alarms
Fire detection systems only work properly when the sensor type matches the risk in that room. Get that bit right and you avoid false alarms while still getting fast warning when it matters.
1. Smoke alarms (smoke detectors)
These react to smoke in the air, so they are best for escape routes and living spaces where you need the earliest warning. Look for units that meet the right standard for the job, such as BS EN 14604 smoke alarms for domestic use.
2. Heat alarms (heat detectors)
These trigger on heat rather than smoke, which is why they belong in kitchens, garages, and areas where fumes, steam, or dust would constantly set off a smoke alarm. They are about reliable warning without the constant call-backs.
3. Interlinking (one triggers all)
Interlinked fire alarms communicate so if one goes off, they all sound together, which is what you want in multi-room and multi-storey buildings. Depending on the install, that interlink can be hard wired or wireless.
Fire Alarm Accessories That Make Installs and Testing Easier
The right add-ons save call-backs, speed up commissioning, and keep fire safety alarms working properly after handover.
1. Replacement batteries and battery packs
A fresh battery sounds basic, but it is the difference between a working alarm and a chirping nuisance that gets ripped off the ceiling. Keep spares for battery powered fire alarms and for any backup cells in mains powered units.
2. Alarm bases and mounting plates
If you are swapping old units, the right base saves you drilling new holes and making a mess of the ceiling. It also helps keep the fit tight so the head does not wobble or twist loose over time.
3. Interlink modules and link accessories
If you need interlinked fire alarms across a property but cannot run extra cable, the right link accessory gets you the coverage without lifting floors or chasing finished walls.
4. Test and maintenance aids
Regular testing is what keeps fire detection equipment honest. Simple test aids help you check units safely and consistently, especially on higher ceilings or in managed properties.
Shop Fire Alarms at ITS
Whether you need a single replacement smoke alarm, heat alarms for a kitchen run, or interlinked fire alarms for a full property, we stock the range to match the spec. It's all held in our own warehouse and ready for next day delivery, so you can get compliant and get the job signed off without waiting around.
