Jigsaws
When you need a jigsaw for shaped cuts, scribing, or trimming worktops on site, this is the kit that gets into places bigger saws simply cannot.
A good cordless jigsaw earns its keep on second fix, kitchen fitting and snagging, where straight cuts are only half the job. If you are choosing between a top handle, barrel grip, 18v jigsaw or jigsaw body only, match it to how you cut, how often you use it, and the finish you need. Pair it with the right Jigsaw Blades and you will get cleaner lines, less breakout and less time sorting a rough cut after.
What Are Jigsaws Used For?
- Cutting sink and hob openings in kitchen worktops is where a jig saw really proves itself, letting fitters follow marked lines and deal with corners that a circular saw cannot finish cleanly.
- Scribing end panels, window boards and trim on second fix is easier with a cordless jigsaw, especially when you are working upstairs, in tight rooms, or moving from cut to cut all day.
- Shaping sheet materials such as plywood, MDF and laminate on refurbs gives you more control than bigger saws, particularly where the job needs a curved cut rather than a straight rip.
- Cutting metal sheet, trunking covers or thin section materials works well when the right blade and slower stroke are used, saving you dragging out larger kit for small awkward jobs.
- Finishing awkward internal cuts after using Circular Saws is a standard site use, as the jigsaw gets right into corners and around shapes without overcutting the face material.
Choosing the Right Jigsaw
Sorting the right jigsaw is simple: buy for the cut quality and control you need, not just the stroke speed on the box.
1. Top Handle vs Barrel Grip
If you want something familiar and easy to use on general site work, a top handle jigsaw is the straightforward choice. If you do more detailed cutting, tight scribing or careful worktop cuts, a barrel grip jigsaw usually gives better control lower down the tool.
2. Body Only vs Full Kit
If you are already on the battery platform, a jigsaw body only makes sense and saves money. If this will be your first cordless jigsaw or a van spare, get the full kit so you are not caught short halfway through a worktop cut.
3. 18V for Site Use
For most trade jobs, an 18v jigsaw is the right level. It gives enough runtime and cutting power for plywood, MDF, laminate and trim without stepping into overkill for a tool that is mainly about control.
4. Orbital Settings and Dust Control
If you want quicker rough cuts through timber, orbital action helps. If the finish matters, back it off. And if you are cutting indoors on finished jobs, make sure it can hook up to Vacuums & Dust Extractors or you will be cleaning up longer than you were cutting.
Who Uses These on Site?
- Kitchen fitters rely on a jigsaw for worktops, end panels and sink cuts, because it is the tool that sorts the curved, awkward and visible cuts where a rough finish will show straight away.
- Chippies keep a cordless jigsaw handy for second fix, scribing and trimming sheet material, especially when they need to move room to room without trailing a lead behind them.
- Sparkies and plumbers use them for quick access cuts in boards, boxing and panels, where a neat opening matters and there is no room to force in a bigger saw.
- Maintenance teams and shopfitters swear by barrel grip and top handle models for snagging, cut-outs and adaptation work, because they are constantly dealing with fitted materials rather than fresh bench work.
- Anyone doing light demolition or rough opening-out will usually keep one alongside Reciprocating Saws, using the jigsaw when the cut needs control instead of brute force.
The Basics: Understanding Jigsaws
A jigsaw cuts with a narrow up and down blade, which is why it can handle curves, cut-outs and awkward shapes that other saws cannot. The key differences come down to how much control you need and how clean the finish has to be.
1. Straight Stroke vs Orbital Action
A straight stroke is better when you want a cleaner, steadier cut in laminates, finished boards or metal. Orbital action adds a more aggressive blade movement, which speeds up timber cuts but can leave a rougher edge if you are not careful.
2. Top Handle vs Barrel Grip Control
Top handle models feel familiar and are easier for general cutting on site. Barrel grip jigsaws keep your hand lower and closer to the cut line, which helps when you need tighter control on scribe work or visible finish cuts.
3. Blade Choice Changes Everything
The tool matters, but the blade decides the finish. Fine blades help with laminates, worktops and cleaner cuts, while coarser blades are quicker in timber. If you need extra support or extraction fittings, look at Jigsaw Attachments & Accessories to get more from the saw you already own.
Jigsaw Accessories That Save Time on Site
The right add-ons make the difference between a clean cut and a rough one you have to sort twice.
1. Jigsaw Blades
This is the one you do not skip. Wrong blade, wrong finish. Fine tooth blades are what you want for laminates and worktops, while faster timber blades are better for rough shaping and sheet cuts.
2. Splinter Guards
These help reduce breakout on the top face when you are cutting visible materials. Well worth having when you are working on finished panels, laminated boards or anything the client will see up close.
3. Dust Extraction Adaptors
Get one if you are cutting indoors or on snagging jobs. It saves filling the room with fine dust and cuts down the clean-up, especially on kitchen fits and occupied properties.
4. Base Protectors and Guide Fences
A base protector helps stop marking finished surfaces, while a guide fence is useful for repeated straight cuts where you want the speed of a jigsaw without the wandering line.
Choose the Right Jigsaw for the Job
Use this quick guide to match the saw to the cut you actually do day to day.
| Your Job | Jigsaw or Type | Key Features |
|---|---|---|
| General second fix and sheet cuts | Top handle cordless jigsaw | Easy grip, quick handling, solid all-round site use |
| Worktops, scribing and cleaner visible cuts | Barrel grip jigsaw | Lower hand position, better control, improved line accuracy |
| Battery platform users adding another saw | Jigsaw body only | Saves money, uses existing batteries and chargers |
| Daily trade use across timber and laminate | 18v jigsaw | Strong runtime, enough power for site materials, good balance |
| Fast rough cuts in timber | Jigsaw with orbital action | Quicker cut rate, better for speed than fine finish work |
Common Buying and Usage Mistakes
- Buying on power alone and ignoring control is a common mistake. A jigsaw is mainly about following a line cleanly, so if you do detailed cuts, grip style matters just as much as motor spec.
- Using the wrong blade for the material wrecks the finish and wastes time. A fast coarse wood blade on a laminate worktop will tear the face up, so always match the blade to the cut quality needed.
- Running full orbital action on every cut is where a lot of rough edges come from. It is fine for quicker timber cuts, but back it off for worktops, finished panels and tighter shaped work.
- Forcing the saw through the cut makes the blade wander and can leave you off line. Let the blade do the work, especially on curves and internal corners where accuracy matters most.
- Treating a jigsaw like a demolition saw is the wrong call. If the job is rough stripping, hidden cuts or brute-force opening up, reach for a recip instead and keep the jigsaw for controlled cutting.
Top Handle vs Barrel Grip vs Corded
Top Handle Jigsaw
This is the standard choice for general trade use. It is easy to pick up, easy to control on basic cuts, and suits most chippies and fitters who want one saw for mixed site jobs.
Barrel Grip Jigsaw
Better when accuracy matters more than convenience. Your hand sits lower to the material, which gives a steadier feel for scribing, tighter curves and cleaner worktop or laminate cuts.
Cordless Jigsaw
For most site users this is the sensible option now. No lead to drag around kitchens, refurbs or upstairs rooms, and an 18v jigsaw gives plenty for regular timber, board and trim work.
Corded Jigsaw
Still useful on bench work or longer cutting sessions where constant runtime matters more than mobility. Less handy on active sites, but a fair choice if the saw rarely leaves the workshop or van setup.
Maintenance and Care
Clear Dust and Chips After Use
Blow out the blade clamp, shoe area and vents after cutting MDF, laminate or softwood. Built-up dust affects visibility, clogs moving parts and shortens tool life.
Check the Blade Clamp
If the blade starts leaning, slipping or shaking about, inspect the clamp before blaming the saw. A worn or dirty clamp ruins cut accuracy and can chew through blades.
Replace Blades Early
A blunt blade burns timber, chips laminates and wanders off line. Do not try to get one more job out of it if the finish matters. Fresh blades are cheaper than remaking a panel.
Keep the Base Clean and Smooth
Wipe the shoe down before setting it on finished boards or worktops. Grit stuck underneath is an easy way to scratch visible surfaces and leave yourself a snag to sort later.
Store It Properly
Do not throw it loose in the van with bent blades and offcuts. Keep the saw dry, store blades separately, and protect the base if you want it cutting straight on the next job.
Why Shop for Jigsaws at ITS?
Whether you need a cordless jigsaw for daily second fix, a barrel grip model for cleaner control, or a jigsaw body only to match the batteries you already run, we have the range in one place. ITS stocks top handle, barrel grip, 18v and battery jigsaw options, plus the blades and add-ons that go with them, all in our own warehouse and ready for next day delivery.
Jigsaw FAQs
What's the difference between a top handle and barrel grip jigsaw?
Top handle jigsaws are the standard all-round choice and feel more familiar to most users on site. Barrel grip jigsaws put your hand lower and closer to the cut, which usually gives better control for scribing, tighter curves and cleaner finish work.
What jigsaw blade is best for cutting a kitchen worktop?
Use a fine tooth blade made for laminate or finished board, not a fast rough-cut wood blade. That gives you a cleaner edge with less breakout on the face, which matters when the cut will be visible around sinks and hobs.
Can a jigsaw cut metal?
Yes, as long as you fit the correct metal cutting blade and slow the cut down. It is fine for sheet metal, thin section and similar site materials, but you need to let the blade work rather than forcing it through.
What does orbital action mean on a jigsaw?
Orbital action adds a forward movement to the blade as it cuts, so it removes material faster in timber. It is useful for quicker rough cuts, but if you want a tidier finish on laminates or visible edges, wind it back or switch it off.
Do jigsaw blades fit all brands?
No, not always. Most modern trade jigsaws use common T-shank blades, but not every saw takes every fitting style, so always check blade type against the saw before ordering a pack for site.
Is a cordless jigsaw strong enough for daily site use?
Yes, a decent 18v jigsaw is more than capable for regular timber, sheet material, laminate and trim work on site. For most trades, battery runtime and blade choice matter more day to day than outright raw power.
