STIHL Chains & Chainsaw Accessories
Stihl chainsaw chains are what make the saw earn its keep, whether you're snedding, logging up, or cutting sleepers. Get the right chain and it cuts clean.
When a chain's blunt, stretched, or the wrong pitch, you'll feel it straight away in slow cuts, smoke, and a saw that wants to wander. This range of Stihl chainsaw chains covers the common Stihl bar and sprocket set-ups, so you can match pitch, gauge, drive links and cutter type to your saw, keep it sharp, and get back to work.
What Are Stihl Chainsaw Chains Used For?
- Cutting firewood and logging up on the deck, where a correctly matched Stihl chainsaw chain pulls itself through the cut instead of you forcing it and burning the bar.
- Snedding and limbing on site clearances, where a sharp chain with the right cutter profile helps you work fast without constant snagging and kickbacky behaviour.
- Cross-cutting sleepers, posts, and treated timber, where keeping the chain sharp and properly tensioned stops wandering cuts and saves you chewing up the bar rails.
- Day to day maintenance for arborists and grounds teams, where swapping to a fresh chain is quicker than fighting a blunt one when you're mid-job and the pile still needs shifting.
Choosing the Right Stihl Chainsaw Chains
Don't guess a chain from the bar length alone; match the exact pitch, gauge, and drive link count or it will either not fit or it will wear your bar and sprocket out fast.
1. Pitch and gauge (Non negotiable)
If the pitch does not match your drive sprocket, it will not run right, full stop. If the gauge is wrong, it will either bind in the bar groove or rattle about and cut rough, so check the bar markings or your current chain before you order.
2. Drive link count (What actually sets the length)
Two 16 inch bars can still take different chains, so count the drive links on your existing chain or read the number stamped on the bar. If you're between options, go by drive links every time, not "looks about right".
3. Cutter type and workload
If you're mostly cross cutting clean timber, a standard full chisel style chain cuts fast but needs keeping sharp. If you're in dirty wood, site clearances, or you're likely to touch the deck, pick a chain that prioritises staying sharp longer because it will save you time and bars.
4. Keep it running straight
If the saw starts pulling to one side, don't just keep leaning on it; that's usually uneven cutters or a chain that's past it. Swap the chain, then sharpen properly and check bar wear so you're not ruining the next one as well.
Who Uses Stihl Chainsaw Chains?
- Arborists and tree surgeons who keep spare chains ready so downtime is a two minute swap, not an hour trying to rescue a rocked chain on a stump.
- Groundworkers and landscapers doing site clearances, because the right chain spec makes cutting brash and sectioning timber safer and more predictable.
- Farm and estate maintenance teams cutting firewood and fencing materials, where matching pitch, gauge and drive link count to the bar avoids fit issues and premature wear.
The Basics: Understanding Chainsaw Chain Sizing
Chains are sized to match the bar and sprocket, not just the saw model. Get these three details right and the chain will fit, oil properly, and cut as it should.
1. Pitch (How the chain matches the sprocket)
Pitch is the spacing of the chain and it has to match the sprocket on the saw. If it's wrong, the chain will not seat correctly and you'll get poor drive, rough running, and rapid wear.
2. Gauge (How the chain sits in the bar groove)
Gauge is the thickness of the drive links that run in the bar groove. Too thick and it binds; too thin and it flaps about, cuts wonky, and can damage the bar rails over time.
3. Drive links (The chain length that matters)
Drive links are the "teeth" underneath that the sprocket pulls around the bar. The drive link count is what makes the chain the correct length for your bar, so it's the number you use to order accurately.
Chainsaw Chain Accessories That Keep You Cutting
A spare chain is only half the story; the right extras keep it sharp, tensioned, and lubricated so you are not fighting the saw.
1. Correct size round file and file guide
Get the right diameter file for your chain and a guide to hold the angle, otherwise you'll round cutters off and the saw will feel dead even after "sharpening". It is the quickest way to keep a Stihl chainsaw chain cutting clean between swaps.
2. Depth gauge tool (Raker gauge)
If you only file the cutters and ignore the rakers, the chain stops biting and you end up leaning on it. A depth gauge tool lets you set rakers properly so the chain feeds through timber without grabbing or glazing.
3. Bar and chain oil
A chain that is running dry will stretch, heat up, and wear the bar fast. Keep decent bar and chain oil to hand and check the oiler is actually delivering, especially on long cuts and dry timber.
4. Scrench and bar groove cleaner
Proper tension and a clean bar groove stop tight spots and premature wear. A scrench keeps adjustments quick on site, and a groove cleaner gets packed sawdust out so oil can reach the chain properly.
Shop Stihl Chainsaw Chains at ITS
Whether you need a straight replacement Stihl chainsaw chain or you're stocking spares for different bars and saws, we've got a proper range ready to go. It's all held in our own warehouse, in stock for next day delivery so you can get back on the cut without waiting about.
Stihl Chainsaw Chains FAQs
How do I make sure I'm ordering the correct Stihl chainsaw chain?
Match three things: pitch, gauge, and drive link count. The bar usually has these stamped on it, and your existing chain will confirm it. Bar length on its own is not enough, because different bars can use different drive link counts.
My chain fits, but the saw cuts slow and smokes. Is it the chain or the saw?
Nine times out of ten it is a blunt chain, wrong depth gauges, or lack of oil. If the cutters are shiny or you are making dust instead of chips, swap to a sharp chain and check oil delivery and tension before you start blaming the powerhead.
Can I run any chain on a Stihl bar as long as it's the same length?
No. The pitch has to match the sprocket and the gauge has to match the bar groove, otherwise it will run rough, cut badly, and wear the bar and sprocket out. Length is set by drive links, but it still has to be the correct pitch and gauge.
How tight should a Stihl chainsaw chain be for site work?
Snug, but not guitar-string tight. You should be able to pull the chain around the bar by hand with gloves on, and the drive links should stay engaged in the bar groove when you lift the chain slightly. Recheck tension after the first few cuts, because a chain will warm up and settle.
Is it worth keeping spare chains, or just sharpening one chain?
Keep at least one spare. On a real job, swapping to a fresh chain keeps you working, then you can sharpen properly back at the bench. It also stops you over-filing in a rush and ending up with uneven cutters and a saw that pulls sideways.
