Sealey Magnetic Drills
Magnetic drill kit is for clean, accurate steel drilling where a hand drill will wander, snatch, or wear you out on beam work and fabrication.
If you're drilling RSJs, steel plate, or box section on site, a magnetic drill gives you the control and holding power a standard drill simply cannot. A Sealey magnetic drill is the sort of kit fabricators, steel erectors, and maintenance teams reach for when holes need to be square, repeatable, and clean with minimal faff. Pair the right cutter with steady feed and proper contact on clean steel, and these machines make overhead, vertical, and awkward beam work far more manageable. If you need a mag drill that earns its keep on structural steel and workshop jobs, start here.
What Are Magnetic Drills Used For?
- Drilling clean, accurate holes through steel beams, RSJs, and plate on site is where a magnetic drill comes into its own, especially when a handheld drill would skate about or leave the hole out of line.
- Working vertically on columns, frames, and structural steel is far easier with a mag drill because the magnetic base holds the machine in place while you feed the cutter properly.
- Cutting larger diameter holes for bolting, fixing steelwork, and fabrication jobs is quicker with annular cutters, as a magnetic core drill removes less material than a twist bit and puts less strain on the user.
- Handling repeat drilling in workshops and plant rooms suits a mag drill press well, giving fabricators and maintenance engineers more consistent hole placement across brackets, channels, and heavy sections.
- Opening out steel for site modifications, handrail installs, and retrofit mechanical work saves time with these machines, particularly where access is tight and dragging big bench kit to the job is not an option.
Choosing the Right Magnetic Drill
Sorting the right one is simple: match the drill to the steel, the hole size, and the position you are actually working in.
1. Cutter Capacity First
If you are mostly drilling bolt holes and smaller fabrication work, a compact unit is usually enough. If you are regularly cutting larger diameters through beam and plate, buy for the cutter capacity you really need now, not the one job you hope stays small.
2. Holding Force Matters
If the work is vertical or awkward, do not mess about with a weak base. You need proper magnetic holding force on clean, flat steel, otherwise the whole job becomes slower and less safe.
3. Site Access and Weight
If you are carrying it up steel, across ladders, or into plant rooms, weight soon matters. A heavier machine can be steadier on big holes, but a lighter one is far easier when you are moving all day.
4. Power Supply on the Job
If you are working off temporary power or out in the yard, think about your lead setup before you buy. A good drill is no use if you are forever short of reach, so plan it with proper Sealey Extension Reels & Leads.
Who Uses These on Site?
- Steel erectors use a magnetic drill for putting accurate bolt holes through beams and connections on install jobs where there is no room for error.
- Fabricators swear by a mag drill for workshop drilling on plate, channel, and box section because it keeps holes straight and saves burning through standard bits.
- Mechanical fitters and maintenance teams use a magnetic core drill for retrofit bracketry, plant repairs, and steel supports in cramped plant rooms and service areas.
- Agricultural and plant repair engineers keep one handy for drilling heavy steel on machinery and trailers where dragging the work back to a pillar drill is more trouble than it is worth.
- Site teams looking across the wider Magnetic Drills range usually want one thing: solid holding force, clean cuts, and a machine that does not fight them halfway through the hole.
The Basics: Understanding Magnetic Drills
A magnetic drill is basically a portable drilling machine that locks itself to steel so you can cut accurate holes where the work sits. The key thing is not the spin speed alone. It is how the magnet, cutter, and feed all work together on the job.
1. The Magnetic Base
The magnet grips the steel so the drill stays planted while you cut. That is what makes vertical and awkward beam work possible, but it only works properly on clean, flat ferrous metal with enough thickness to hold securely.
2. Annular Cutters vs Twist Bits
Most mag drill jobs are done with annular cutters because they cut the edge of the hole instead of chewing out the whole middle. That means faster drilling, less strain on the motor, and cleaner holes through structural steel.
3. Feed and Speed
Let the cutter do the work. Too much force blunts cutters and overheats the machine, while too little just rubs and wastes time. Steady feed, proper lubrication, and the right cutter size give you the clean finish you bought the drill for.
Mag Drill Accessories That Keep You Cutting
The right extras save wasted cutters, rough holes, and that walk back to the van when the job is half done.
1. Annular Cutters and Pilot Pins
This is the big one. Wrong or worn cutters turn a straightforward steel hole into a slow, smoking mess. Keep the correct sizes to hand and look at Sealey Drill Bits when you need fresh cutting gear that matches the work.
2. Cutting Fluid
Do not run dry unless the cutter specifically allows it. Cutting fluid keeps heat down, helps the cutter clear properly, and stops you burning through expensive consumables halfway through beam work.
3. Safety Straps
If you are drilling vertically or above ground level, a safety strap is not optional common sense. It is what stops a slipped machine becoming a proper site incident.
4. Deburring and Finishing Gear
Freshly cut steel holes often need a tidy finish before bolting up or painting. A quick pass with the right abrasives from Sealey Angle Grinder Discs & Accessories saves sharp edges and snagging later on.
Choose the Right Magnetic Drill for the Job
Use this as a quick guide before you pick your machine.
| Your Job | Category or Type | Key Features |
|---|---|---|
| General fabrication and bracket work in the workshop | Compact magnetic drill | Good cutter capacity, manageable weight, easy setup on plate and section |
| Drilling RSJs and structural beam connections on site | Full size mag drill | Strong magnetic base, larger annular cutter capacity, stable feed handles |
| Vertical drilling on columns and installed steel | Portable magnetic core drill | High holding force, lower carry weight, solid safety strap points |
| Plant maintenance and retrofit support work | Mid size mag drill press | Balanced size, reliable motor, works well in tighter access areas |
| Finishing and sharpening related workshop kit | Support equipment | Useful backup from Sealey Bench Grinders for keeping metalworking kit ready for the next shift |
Common Buying and Usage Mistakes
- Buying by price instead of hole size and steel thickness usually ends with a drill that is too small for the cutters you actually need. Check maximum cutter diameter and the steel you work on most.
- Sticking the magnet onto painted, rusty, dirty, or uneven steel cuts holding force badly. Clean back to sound metal first or you are asking the machine to do a job it cannot hold safely.
- Using twist bits for every job slows everything down and works the motor harder than it needs to. For larger steel holes, annular cutters are the proper route.
- Forgetting lubrication ruins cutters fast and leaves rough holes. Use the right cutting fluid and steady feed rather than leaning on the handles harder.
- Ignoring machine weight sounds fine until you are carrying it up steelwork all day. If the work is mostly mobile site drilling, do not choose a lump that is only comfortable on a bench.
Annular Cutter Mag Drills vs Twist Drill Setups vs Pillar Drills
Mag Drills with Annular Cutters
This is the right choice for clean, fast holes in installed steel, beams, and heavy sections. They are built for site mobility and larger holes, but they rely on proper magnetic contact and are only as good as the steel surface beneath them.
Hand Drills with Twist Bits
Fine for lighter steel and smaller holes, especially where the magnet cannot sit, but they wander more easily and become hard work on bigger diameters. Good backup kit, not the best answer for repetitive structural drilling.
Pillar and Bench Drills
Brilliant in the workshop when you can take the work to the machine. They offer stable drilling and repeatability, but once the steel is installed on site they are out of the conversation.
Maintenance and Care
Keep the Magnet Face Clean
Wipe swarf, oil, and steel dust off the magnetic base after every job. Any build-up under the base reduces contact and holding force the next time you set up.
Look After Your Cutters
Do not chuck worn cutters back in the case and hope for the best. Clean them, oil them lightly, and replace them once they start rubbing, chipping, or producing poor holes.
Check Leads and Handles
Site work is hard on cables and feed handles. Inspect both regularly, especially if the drill is going up steel or in and out of the van every day.
Store It Dry and Properly
Do not leave a mag drill rattling about loose with wet swarf stuck to it. Store it in its case, keep the base protected, and keep moisture off the machine to avoid corrosion and electrical grief.
Repair or Replace Honestly
If the magnet is not holding properly, the feed is rough, or the motor sounds wrong under load, stop using it until it is checked. A doubtful magnetic drill is not a bit of kit to gamble with.
Why Shop for Magnetic Drills at ITS?
Whether you need a compact mag drill for fabrication work or a larger magnetic core drill for beam drilling on site, we stock the full range. That means different sizes, capacities, cutters, and supporting kit all in one place, including Sealey options built for hard trade use. It is all held in our own warehouse and ready for next day delivery, so you can get sorted without holding up the job.
Magnetic Drill FAQs
What is a magnetic drill used for?
A magnetic drill is used for drilling accurate holes in steel where a normal hand drill is slow, awkward, or likely to wander. Think RSJs, structural beams, plate, channel, and box section on site or in the workshop. They are especially useful for larger diameter holes with annular cutters.
How much holding force does a mag drill need for steel beams?
More is better, but the real answer depends on the beam thickness, surface condition, and whether you are working flat or vertical. On beam work, you want strong magnetic holding force on clean, flat bare steel. Paint, rust, dirt, and thin material all reduce grip, so never judge it by the spec sheet alone.
Can magnetic drills be used vertically?
Yes, that is one of the main reasons lads buy them. A magnetic drill can be used vertically on steel columns and beams, provided the magnet has proper contact on suitable steel and you use the safety strap. Clean the surface first and do not trust a poor setup.
Will a Sealey magnetic drill handle site work, or is it more of a workshop machine?
It is built for both, as long as you pick the right size and capacity. A Sealey magnetic drill suits fabrication shops, steel install work, and maintenance jobs well, but like any mag drill it needs clean steel contact and sensible handling on site.
Can I use a mag drill on painted or rusty steel?
Not if you want the magnet to hold properly. It might stick, but you are cutting your safety margin down straight away. Clean back to bare, flat steel wherever the base sits before you start drilling.
Do I really need annular cutters, or will standard bits do?
For small holes, standard bits can do the job. For bigger holes in steel, annular cutters are what make a mag drill worth owning. They cut faster, run cleaner, and put less strain on the machine than forcing large twist bits through beam after beam.
