Percussion & Rotary Drills
Percussion drill range for brick, block and masonry when a standard drill just polishes the hole and burns bits.
When you are fixing into brick walls all day, you need a drill that hammers as it spins so the hole cuts clean and stays on line. These percussion drills and rotary drills cover everything from light plug and screw work to tougher fixings in old, hard brick. Choose the right chuck and power for your bits, then get the holes done without fighting the tool.
What Are Percussion Drills Used For?
- Drilling clean fixing holes into brick walls for plugs, frame fixings, brackets and clips without the bit glazing over and wandering.
- Working through blockwork and mortar joints on refurbs where the material changes every few inches and you need the hammer action to keep progress steady.
- Fitting kitchens, rads and pipework where you are in and out of masonry all day and need one drill that can swap between percussion drilling and straight drilling fast.
- General site drilling in timber and metal by switching the percussion off, so you are not chewing up bits or leaving ragged holes in sheet and stud.
Choosing the Right Percussion Drill
Match the drill to the wall and the fixing, not the other way round, because the wrong type will either crawl or wreck bits.
1. Percussion drill vs SDS for brick walls
If you are mostly doing small to medium holes in brick and block with standard round-shank masonry bits, a percussion drill is the sensible choice. If you are regularly drilling bigger holes, chasing, or hitting hard concrete and you want the bit to pull itself through, move to SDS instead of forcing a percussion drill to do a job it is not built for.
2. Chuck type and bit choice
If you are using regular masonry, wood and HSS bits, stick with a keyed or keyless chuck percussion drill so your existing bits fit properly. If your work is mainly masonry and you want faster bit changes and better hammer drilling, an SDS rotary drill is the cleaner setup, but it means SDS shank bits.
3. Power and control for repetitive fixing
For occasional holes, a lighter drill is easier on the wrists and does not feel like overkill. If you are doing best drills for brick walls type work all week, go for a higher power model with a proper side handle and depth stop, because that is what keeps holes consistent and stops the drill snatching when it breaks through.
Who Are Percussion Drills For on Site?
- Sparkies and plumbers drilling brick and block for clips, saddles and brackets, especially on first fix where you are doing dozens of holes back to back.
- Kitchen fitters, joiners and general builders who need one drill that will handle masonry fixings, then go straight back to timber and metal without swapping tools.
- Maintenance teams and handymen doing mixed jobs where you do not know what the wall is until you start drilling, so having percussion on tap saves time and bits.
The Basics: Understanding Percussion Drills
If you have ever asked what is a percussion drill, it is simply a drill that adds a rapid tapping action while it rotates, so masonry bits actually cut instead of skating.
1. Percussion mode vs drill-only mode
Percussion mode is for brick, block and masonry where you need the hammering to break up the surface as the bit turns. Drill-only is for timber, metal and plastics, because leaving percussion on will blunt bits fast and can leave rough, oversized holes.
2. Rotary drills vs percussion drills in plain terms
Rotary drills are about smooth rotation and control for accurate holes in wood and metal. Percussion drills add impact for masonry, so when someone says rotary drills on site, check whether they mean a standard rotary drill or a rotary hammer type tool, because they behave very differently in brick and concrete.
Shop for Percussion Drills at ITS?
Whether you need a compact percussion drill for everyday fixings or a tougher option for constant masonry work, we stock the full range of percussion drills and rotary drills in all the key types and specs. It is all held in our own warehouse, in stock and ready for next day delivery so you can get the right drill on site without losing a day.
Percussion Drill FAQs
What is the difference between SDS and percussion drill?
An SDS drill is a rotary hammer that uses an SDS shank bit and a hammer mechanism designed for masonry, so it drills faster and with less effort in concrete and hard brick. A percussion drill uses a standard chuck and a lighter hammer action, which is fine for brick and block fixing holes, but it is not the right tool for big holes or constant hard concrete work.
What is the difference between a rotary drill and a percussion drill?
A rotary drill is just rotation, so it is best for timber, metal and plastics where you want clean, controlled holes. A percussion drill adds a hammering action for masonry, which is what stops the bit skating on brick walls and helps it cut properly.
What is a percussion drill and when do I actually need one?
A percussion drill is a drill with a selectable hammer action for brick, block and masonry. You need one when you are drilling fixing holes into brick walls and a normal drill just struggles, overheats the bit, or takes forever to get to depth.
Are percussion drills the best drills for brick walls?
For typical plug and fixing holes in brick and block, yes, a percussion drill is usually the quickest and simplest setup with standard masonry bits. If the walls are very hard, you are drilling larger diameters, or you are doing it all day every day, an SDS rotary hammer is often the better choice because it does the work without you leaning on it.
Can I use a percussion drill on tiles or plaster without cracking them?
Yes, but only with the percussion switched off to start with, and the right bit for the surface. Drill tiles and delicate finishes in rotary mode, then switch to percussion only once you are through the tile and into the masonry behind, otherwise you are asking for chips and cracks.
