Makita Breakers & Demolition Drills
Makita breaker tools are for when concrete, brick, or hard screed needs shifting fast, not tickling. Pick the right weight and power for the job.
When you're opening up doorways, lifting old slabs, or breaking out for drains, a Makita breaker or Makita hammer saves your back and your time. From a compact Makita kango for chasing and light demo to a proper Makita concrete breaker and demolition breaker for heavy lift-out, there's a tool here that'll take site abuse. If you're on mains all day, look at a Makita 110v drill or 110v Makita drill option for site compliance; if you're moving room to room, a Makita cordless breaker or Makita battery breaker keeps you working without trailing leads. Choose the right Makita AVT breaker if you're on it for hours, then get the bits and steels to match and crack on.
What Are Makita Breakers Used For?
- Breaking out concrete pads, paths, and oversite when you need clean removal for new drainage runs, footings, or a revised layout.
- Chiselling off tile beds, adhesive, and stubborn screed during refurbs so the next trade is not fighting high spots and loose material.
- Knocking through block and brick for door openings, service penetrations, and lintel work where a Makita kango hammer gives controlled impact without constant re-positioning.
- Chasing channels and trimming back masonry for first fix work when a lighter Makita breaker hammer is quicker than a grinder and keeps dust down when paired with the right extraction.
- Taking up kerbs, edging, and compacted hardstanding on external jobs where a heavier Makita jackhammer style demolition breaker saves hours of bar work.
Choosing the Right Makita Breaker
Sorting the right Makita breaker is simple: match the tool weight and power to what you're breaking, not what you hope it can do.
1. Tool size and weight (light demo vs heavy breakout)
If you're chasing, lifting tiles, or doing smaller breakout, a lighter Makita breaker hammer is easier to control and less fatiguing. If you're lifting slabs or breaking thick concrete all day, step up to a heavier Makita demolition breaker, because a small unit will just rattle and waste time.
2. Power supply (110V site work vs cordless access)
If you're on a commercial site, 110V is often the safe and expected setup, so a Makita 110v drill or breaker option keeps you compliant and running all shift on a transformer. If you're working in occupied buildings, upstairs refurbs, or anywhere leads are a trip hazard, a Makita battery breaker is the sensible choice for quick moves and safer access.
3. Vibration control for long days
If you're only doing occasional breakout, standard is fine. If you're on the tool for hours, pick a Makita AVT breaker where possible, because lower vibration is what keeps your hands usable by Friday and helps you stay on the right side of site HAVS controls.
4. Steel and shank type (make sure it matches)
Do not guess your steels. Check the shank system your Makita kango takes and buy chisels to suit, because the wrong fit will either not lock in properly or batter the retainer to death.
Makita Breaker FAQs
Is a Makita breaker the same thing as a Makita kango?
On site, people use Makita kango as a catch-all for SDS and breakers, but there is a difference. A dedicated Makita breaker is mainly for chiselling and demolition, while a demolition drill can drill holes as well as chisel, so pick based on whether you need drilling, heavy breakout, or both.
Will a Makita cordless breaker actually replace a corded unit for concrete?
For smaller breakout, door thresholds, and room-to-room work, yes, a Makita cordless breaker is often the quickest option because you are not dragging leads and a transformer about. For thick slabs and long continuous breaking, corded still wins for sustained output, so be honest about how much you are lifting in one hit.
Do I need 110V on site, and what is a Makita 110v drill doing in this range?
Many commercial and managed sites expect 110V for portable tools, run from a transformer, because it reduces risk in harsh conditions. If you are working that kind of job, a 110v Makita drill or breaker option keeps you aligned with site rules and avoids getting turned around at the gate.
What is an AVT breaker, and is it worth paying attention to?
Makita AVT breaker models are built to reduce vibration at the handles, which matters if you are chiselling for long periods or doing repetitive breakout. It is not a luxury if you are on the tool regularly, because lower vibration helps with comfort, control, and managing HAVS exposure.
Do all chisels fit all Makita breakers and hammers?
No, and this is where people waste money. Check the shank system your Makita breaker hammer takes and buy steels to match, because the wrong type will not lock in properly and can damage the holder and retainer.
Who Uses Makita Breakers on Site?
- Groundworkers and landscapers breaking out slabs, bases, and kerbs, because a proper Makita concrete breaker shifts material without burning out mid-job.
- Builders and demo teams opening up masonry and lifting old floors, where choosing the right Makita kango by weight stops you overworking a small tool.
- Plumbers and drainage crews cutting channels and breaking out for pipe runs, especially when a Makita cordless breaker lets you move fast between rooms and trenches.
- Sparks and HVAC installers doing service penetrations and localised breakout, because a compact Makita hammer gets the hole started without smashing the surrounding finish to bits.
The Basics: Understanding Breakers and Demolition Drills
A Makita breaker and a Makita hammer do the same core job, but the way they deliver impact changes what they're best at. Here's what matters on site.
1. Demolition drill vs dedicated breaker
A demolition drill gives you hammer action with more control for holes and lighter chiselling, which suits chasing and smaller breakout. A dedicated Makita concrete breaker is built to chisel only, so it hits harder for lifting slabs and thick concrete without cooking itself.
2. Corded 110V vs cordless
110V corded tools keep consistent power for long runs and heavy breakout when you've got a transformer on site. A Makita cordless breaker trades a bit of sustained output for access and speed, which is ideal when you're moving between rooms, working at height, or avoiding leads through finished areas.
3. AVT vibration control (why it matters)
Makita AVT breaker models are designed to cut vibration at the handles, which means less fatigue and better control when you're trimming edges, working overhead, or doing repetitive breakout across a full shift.
Makita Breaker Accessories That Keep You Moving
The right steels and a couple of essentials stop downtime and make the breaker do cleaner work with less effort.
1. Point and flat chisels (correct shank to suit your tool)
A point is for starting cracks and getting under stubborn concrete, and a flat chisel is for lifting and peeling material back in sheets. Keep spares, because blunt steels turn a Makita breaker into a vibrating waste of time.
2. Spade and tile chisels
For screed, tile beds, and adhesive, a wide spade or tile chisel lifts more per hit and leaves a flatter surface, so you are not grinding high spots for the next trade.
3. Dust extraction attachments and shrouds (where compatible)
If you're chiselling indoors, a compatible shroud or extraction setup keeps dust down and saves you an hour of clean-up, especially in lived-in refurbs and commercial fit-outs.
4. Spare batteries and a fast charger for Makita battery breaker models
Cordless demo eats power, so do not turn up with one battery and hope. A second pack and a decent charger keeps the Makita cordless breaker working while you're loading out rubble.
Shop Makita Breaker Tools at ITS
Whether you need a compact Makita hammer for light chasing or a full-size Makita demolition breaker for heavy concrete, we stock the range in the key sizes and power options, including corded and Makita battery breaker models. It's all held in our own warehouse, in stock and ready for next day delivery so you can get the job moving.
