Makita Percussion & Rotary Drills
Makita percussion drills are for when timber and steel turn into block and brick mid-job, and you still need clean holes without burning the motor out.
On refurb and fit-out work you're constantly swapping between pilot holes, fixings, and the odd bit of masonry. Makita rotary drills and Makita hammer drills give you that switchable power, with cordless options for snagging and mains for long, repetitive drilling. Pick the right voltage and chuck for the fixings you use, and you'll stop fighting the tool and get holes done first time.
What Jobs Are Makita Percussion Drills Best At?
- Drilling masonry fixing holes in brick and block for frame fixings, plugs, and brackets when you do not want to drag a rotary SDS out for every small hole.
- Running mixed-material work on refurbs, where you are drilling timber studs one minute and tapping percussion for masonry the next without changing tools.
- First fix and second fix drilling for electricians and plumbers, putting holes through joists, plates, and metal back boxes, then switching to brickwork for clips and saddles.
- Fast, controlled drilling in tighter spots using Makita compact percussion drills, where a big SDS or combi drill is too bulky to keep square to the wall.
- Long days of repetitive drilling with Makita brushless percussion drills, where the motor efficiency and heat control matters more than headline torque.
Choosing the Right Makita Percussion Drill
Match the drill to what you hit most often: if it is mainly brick and concrete, do not kid yourself that any combi will feel like an SDS.
1. Percussion drill vs Rotary hammer drill
If you are drilling lots of 6mm to 10mm holes into block and brick for fixings, Makita hammer drills and percussion modes are fine. If you are regularly into concrete, larger diameters, or overhead drilling, step up to Makita rotary hammer drills because they do the work without you leaning on it all day.
2. Battery platform: 12V, 18V LXT, or 40V XGT
If you are doing light drilling and driving in tight spaces, Makita 12V percussion drills keep weight down and still get fixings in. For most trades, Makita 18V percussion drills on LXT are the sensible everyday choice because you can share batteries across the van. If you are pushing bigger bits, tougher masonry, or want longer runtime without the tool feeling strained, Makita XGT rotary drills on 40V are the step up.
3. Brushless vs brushed
If it is occasional use, a brushed drill will get you by. If you are drilling daily, go Makita brushless percussion drills or Makita brushless rotary drills because they run cooler, hold power better under load, and generally take more abuse before they start feeling tired.
4. Chuck type and bit size
If you are mostly on standard twist drills and masonry bits, a keyed or keyless 13mm chuck is the normal choice. If you are constantly swapping bits one-handed up ladders, prioritise a solid keyless chuck that does not slip, and do not overspec the drill if your day-to-day is small fixings.
Makita Percussion Drill FAQs
Will a Makita percussion drill actually drill concrete, or am I wasting my time?
It will drill light to medium concrete in small sizes, but it is not the right tool for lots of hard concrete holes. If you are regularly drilling concrete for fixings, a Makita rotary hammer drill will be faster, cleaner, and far less effort on your wrists.
What is the real difference between Makita hammer drills and Makita rotary drills?
Makita hammer drills and percussion drills hammer through the chuck and rely on pressure from you. Makita rotary hammer drills use a dedicated hammer mechanism that hits harder, so they chew through masonry and concrete with less pushing and less heat build-up.
Should I go 12V, 18V LXT, or 40V XGT for trade work?
If you are mainly drilling and driving in tight spots, 12V is handy and light. For most Makita drills for tradesmen, 18V LXT is the everyday workhorse because the battery range is massive. If you need more sustained power for tougher drilling and longer runtime, 40V XGT is the better fit, but it is a bigger buy-in.
Is brushless worth paying for on Makita percussion drill tools?
Yes if you are using it most days. Brushless Makita percussion drills tend to run cooler and hold power better when you are drilling repeatedly, which is exactly when cheaper motors start feeling weak and cooking batteries.
Can I use standard masonry bits in these, or do I need SDS?
Makita percussion drills use standard round shank masonry bits in the chuck. SDS bits are for rotary hammer drills with an SDS chuck, and they will not fit a standard 13mm chuck properly.
Who Uses Makita Percussion and Rotary Drills?
- Sparkies and plumbers use Makita percussion drill tools for day-to-day fixing holes in brick and block, plus clean drilling through timber and sheet without swapping kit.
- Joiners and kitchen fitters keep Makita cordless percussion drills on the van for mixed jobs, especially when you are anchoring rails and units into masonry walls.
- Maintenance teams and site fitters rely on Makita professional percussion drills for quick call-outs, because you can drill, drive, and hit masonry without carrying three tools.
The Basics: Understanding Makita Percussion vs Rotary Drilling
These look similar on the shelf, but they behave very differently on a wall. Knowing the difference stops you buying a drill that either struggles in masonry or is overkill for everyday fixings.
1. Percussion hammer drills (for lighter masonry work)
Makita percussion drills add a rapid hammering action through the chuck while the bit rotates, which helps standard masonry bits bite into brick and block. They are ideal for plugs, small anchors, and mixed drilling, but they slow down fast in hard concrete because the impact is not as aggressive as an SDS mechanism.
2. Rotary hammer drills (SDS style for concrete and volume)
Makita rotary hammer drills use a dedicated hammer mechanism that drives the bit far harder, so the tool does not rely on you pushing your bodyweight into it. That is why they are the right choice for concrete drilling tools, repetitive fixing holes, and bigger diameters where a percussion drill just feels like it is polishing the wall.
3. Cordless vs electric for runtime
Makita cordless percussion drills are for mobility, snagging, and site work where power is not guaranteed. Makita electric rotary drills make sense when you are drilling for hours in one spot, because you are not cycling batteries and the tool stays consistent all shift.
Makita Drill Accessories That Save Time on Site
The drill is only half the story; the right bits and add-ons stop slipping chucks, snapped tips, and wasted trips back to the van.
1. Masonry drill bit sets and singles
Buy the diameters you actually use for plugs and fixings and keep spares, because blunt masonry bits make any percussion drill feel weak and you end up leaning on it until it overheats.
2. Mixed drill bit sets for wood and metal
On refurbs you are constantly into timber, sheet, and the odd bit of steel, so a proper mixed set means you are not bodging holes with the wrong bit and wondering why it is burning out.
3. Spare batteries and a fast charger (for LXT or XGT)
If you are running Makita LXT percussion drills or Makita XGT rotary drills all day, a second battery is the difference between working straight through and standing around while one limps back to life on charge.
4. Depth stops and side handles
For repetitive fixing holes, a depth stop keeps every hole consistent, and a side handle gives you control when the bit grabs, especially in harder masonry where wrist strain creeps up fast.
Why Shop for Makita Percussion Drills at ITS?
Whether you need Makita compact percussion drills for snagging, heavy duty rotary drills for tougher masonry, or you are choosing between 12V, 18V LXT and 40V XGT, we stock the full spread in one place. It is all held in our own warehouse, in stock and ready for next day delivery, so you can order today and be drilling on site tomorrow.
